contract

If found to have an inherited congenital birth defect or life threatening disease by a licensed Veterinarian, upon return will receive a full refund or exchange, if available, within 5 working days of purchase. Registration papers shall be returned with puppy and written proof from Vet. This does not include dental problems, hernias, hypoglycemia, or coccidiosis. This guarantee does not include illness caused by food, chemicals, injury from mishandling, or ingesting foreign objects. All veterinary expenses and shipping expenses are the responsibility of the purchaser.

No refunds will be given by seller if puppy is not wanted because of family problems, allergies or inability to care properly for puppy or other reasons fault of purchaser, UNLESS APPROVED BY SELLER. The seller assumes no responsibility on this dog or puppy after leaving the premises. Purchaser should be aware of the normal expenses and obligation to care for puppy, including shots, worming, food and water requirements, leash laws and normal confinements for the safety and security of the puppy.

If a dog or puppy is “put to sleep” without notifying seller NO refund, partial refund,
or replacement will be given.

This puppy or dog will NOT be purchased for resale or wholesale operations, and will NOT be
resold to pet shop, dog farm, wholesaler or agent for the same, for any reason whatsoever.
The offspring will NOT be sold as above said purposes also.

Puppy will be purchased with: (Full registration rights - Limited registration) as explained by seller, and accepted by purchaser. Initial ______________

Cockapoo puppies may or may not be registered American Cockapoo Club
If registered ACC, Proof of American Cockapoo Club registration will be given at time of sale.
No registration papers to be given for MaltiPoos.
Poodle puppies will come with CKC registration papers.

Reg. Number : ______________________________________

Paid in full, ( cash , check # )

Signature seller________________________________________

Signature buyer________________________________________

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Puppy Pointers

1. Puppy proof your home.

2. Keep small objects out of reach, such as needles, thread, string, medication, house plants, electric cords, and phone cords.

3. For safety, puppy should be kept in confined areas. A crate is a valuable asset, if you make sure your pup gets use to it while young, even if he isn`t kept in for long periods, it will be acceptable to the pet if he is already accustomed to using it. There may be unforeseen circumstances in the future when it will be necessary to use it and it won`t be a bad experience if he was able to use it while young. Short term, infrequent use will be a valuable experience even if not used for a long time, incase the need comes up later on.

FEEDING: If your puppy or dog makes a pigs of himself you may need to limit the quantity of food to avoid medical intervention if they have a big craving, and allowed to eat more than they should. This hasn`t been a problem with my dogs, they eat a normal amount and walk away, may be a problem if they feel they need to compete for food. My dogs have food available all the time . Puppies may need puppy chow softened with water, before serving, if they don`t have all their teeth, and are having a hard time chewing. I also give milk bones, or TD for treats. (TD is a food supplied by vet, good for keeping teeth clean)

CHEWING: chew objects: nylon bones or real beef bones (boiled), rawhide chews

If they spend a lot of time chewing on beef bones it can cause excessive wear to teeth, dental problems. If your pet chews excessively, the bone should be put up and given for limited time periods. If you buy rawhide bones, make sure to watch the size, if they get it chewed to less than 4 inches, they might try to swallow it and choke. Also I`ve read where most of the rawhide chews are shipped from overseas, can have a high lead content, which is hazardous to his health.

If you find your puppy is chewing on objects other than bones or toys, BITTER APPLE spray is a good deterrent. It also comes in a paste form, Bitter Apple or Bitter Lime.

GROOMING: I use diluted tear free, baby shampoo for the face and head area, and an inexpensive shampoo (SUAVE) diluted. The creme rinse (Suave) is also diluted. Approximately 1/4 cup of shampoo in a large drinking glass, fill with very warm water. Always check temperature, of mixture and of water used from faucet or spray. The dogs body temp is higher than ours, so I adjust it nice and warm.

It is necessary to dry the hair and thoroughly brush and comb hair. Make sure to keep dryer far enough away and moving while drying so that you don`t cause skin burning.

I use a fine tooth metal comb being careful not to pull tangles, this will make grooming much easier. At 8 to 10 months your pup will shed out a lot of his puppy coat, if daily brushing isn`t done, matting will build up fast, the loose hair is held in the coat and has to be brushed out, it should only take a few minutes if done regularly during this time. This should only go on for a couple weeks, as I recall, then you should be able to do it weekly.

You can have the dogs hair cut to make grooming a quick, easy job.

FLEAS: I have been using Frontline Plus although I use in moderation. I apply in Spring and not again unless I see flees or ticks. I normally get by with one application for the whole year. Make sure not to use 2 chemical products at the same time, this can cause a dangerous overdose, requiring immediate medical assistance.

Example, any two products: dip, spray, flea collar, powder READ CAUTIONS

The puppy will have a virus shot before leaving breeder home, this will cover:Distemper, Hepatitis,
Parainfluenza, and Parvo. (modified live). The next shot should be 3 weeks from the one given by seller and follow chart thereafter,
your vet will advise. Corona should not be given to puppies unless advised by vet if there is an outbreak of the Corona prevalent.

The Indiana law requires a rabies to be given by a licensed vet at the age of 3 months in Indiana.

SPAYING AND NEUTERING: I recommend neutering males at the age of 6 months if you are sure you don`t want to use the male for stud. This works best if done before the pup goes through puberty, if his hormones change before surgery he could have the instincts of a mature male. This doesn`t mean he`ll positively be doing things in the house he shouldn`t, there is a chance of him wanting to mark territory if other dogs are in the home. The age to spay a female is not so important, although vets are in a hurry to get all dogs altered, ASAP, understandably so, with the number of dogs being euthanized. I would not have a female spayed before 6 months of age

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Raising Pups

This information could be useful for raising a new puppy.

LEADER OF THE PACK: The one thing that every dog absolutely needs to know is WHO is the leader of this pack? A dog either has to lead or follow. If he is stuck somewhere in the middle, they are lost. Most problems can be traced to pack status. The first to eat or the first to walk through a doorway are other examples of leader qualities. Dinner time at the table doesn`t have to mean competing with the family pet. If you have to give scraps (not advised) wait until everyone is finished, a dinner treat should be given in food bowl, not at the table. This will help to not start begging at the table.

SLEEPING ON THE BED: Never let your puppy sleep on the bed with you. I know that some people love the idea of your cute little puppy cuddling next to you and keeping you warm on a cold night. Let`s look at this from the puppy`s point of view. When a puppy and his pack go to sleep, the pack leader sleeps above (at a higher resting place) then the rest of the pack, thus showing the subordinates who`s the boss. Now, if I were a puppy and I can sleep on the bed with my master, I would now think that since I`m sleeping at an equal level, I must be a pack leader. In other words.. don`t give in.

Letting your new puppy sleep in your bedroom is very important, just not on the bed. When he sleeps in your room, he knows that he is a part of your pack. If you were to separate him he would think he is his own pack.

AGGRESSIVE PROBLEMS: Aggression and a show of dominance, 3 rules:

1. Picking up: Gently pick your puppy up by lifting him underneath their front legs. Hold them a foot or two off the ground to see if they struggle. A submissive pup will hardly struggle, while a dominant pup will put up a pretty good fight. Hold him there until they give up and remain motionless. Then place them back down gently.

2. Pinning: Gently roll your puppy onto his side. Then use your hand to keep him pinned to the ground. The same rules apply for the submissive and dominant pups. When they give in let them up a few seconds later.

3. Stare down: both exercises should be done while staring your puppy down. Make sure that they turn away first. You should also stare down a few other times during the day.

CRATE TRAINING: Crate train is an excellent training tool. Don`t think of it as cruel to your puppy. If the crate is introduced properly, your pup will actually love to sleep and stay in the crate just to relax. They think of it as a den. To properly introduce your pup to its crate, start by leaving the door open and put a few toys or treats inside. When your pup goes inside praise him. Start closing the door for a few minutes and walk away, then return and open it without excitement or eye contact. Keep working up the amount of time until you have reached a couple of hours. It is very important to avoid showing any reaction while opening the gate. If you make a big production about the release, then your pup will work up a frenzy just at the thought of your return and the opening of the crate. You want to instill a calmness, and to be able to leave him in a safe environment. Over exciting the pup when leaving or returning causes separation anxiety. A simple good-bye,” be good puppy”, and quietly slip away, leaving a treat at this time can also distract him from getting excited at this time. If the puppy is so fortunate to have a full-time human companion these procedures should be practiced even if not necessary at the time in case of future circumstances where he will need to be left alone. He will be use to it already. The crate is also a good way of housebreaking your puppy. A pup will not dirty his den, if he can help it. He should have enough room to stand, turn around, and stretch. If you give him any more room, he will dirty one side of the crate, while sleeping on the other. Never leave your pup in the crate more than 4 - 5 hours at a stretch. A great place to keep the crate is in your bedroom. It is very important that the pup feels like a part of the family. Sleeping in your room will go a long way toward creating the pack attitude. The crate should not be used for punishment.

HOUSEBREAKING: Your pup will have to relieve himself after playing, sleeping, eating, or drinking. Anytime he does any of these things, or if he sniffs and circles, take him outside immediately to the proper area and wait there. Try to let him know that it is a good place to go. When he begins to relieve himself, shower him with praise until finished, more praise and petting. If releasing him from crate, go out immediately, same as above. When not in crate accidents will happen, try not to get mad at your pup, (remember you wouldn`t hit a young baby). If you catch him making a mistake, say NO, then quickly take him outside. Don`t try to scold if it happened a few minutes before, he won`t remember and will be confused, of your anger. No spanking or rubbing noses in messes. You should never let him see you clean up the mess he will think that you are accepting what he did. Clean up with 50 - 50 white vinegar/water solution or product from pet store for accident cleanup. Ammonia will smell similar to normal urine, so he will continue to use this spot.

SEPARATION ANXIETY: This subject was touched on earlier in crate training. Make sure to leave quietly and return without making it a big deal. Bad habits of nervousness, chewing, digging, pottying, can surface if he feels anxious waiting for your return. The cycle is hard to break if it gets started so an effort in the beginning will make his life and yours a happy one. You may want to leave a radio on, when leaving for longer time periods. Special toys made to take up the dogs time by trying to get a treat which is inserted into the toy are helpful if he seems to have trouble being left alone, despite your efforts. Many dogs are given up because of this problem. Please try not to be one of these statistics.

EARLY CRITICAL PERIODS: Human socialization period ( 7 - 12 ) weeks. This is the best time for going into a new home. It is good to take your pup out to be touched and handled by others for proper emotional growth.

Fear impact period ( 8 -11) weeks, Try to avoid frightening the pup during this time, traumatic experience at this time can have a lasting effect on the pup.

Seniority classification period, ( 13 - 16 ) weeks. This is the time when your pup will begin to test you to see who is the pack leader, at this time you should begin to look for a basic obedience instructor.

Flight instinct, ( 4 - 8 ) months. At this age the pup will test his wings and turn a deaf ear to you.

Second fear impact period ( 6 - 14 ) months.

Maturity ( 1 - 4 ) years

PLAY BITING : Never allow your pup to bite. If he begins to bite just leave your hand still without pulling away. A “NO” command should also be used, If that does not work, put your fingers to the back of his throat to make it unenjoyable to bite.

JUMPING: Your pup will try to jump on you to lick your lips. Do not allow it. Only greet and praise him when he is seated. He will soon learn that he will not be praised until seated properly. If jumping persists, you may need to start obedience training, the same as with play biting.

TUG OF WARS AND STEALING FOR THE CHASE: Never play tug-of-war with your pup. You do not want him to think that he can beat you at something. Never chase your pup, it belittles you to do what they want you to do, giving him the dominant roll.

FOOD AND WATER: Always offer food before water. You may not want to leave water down all day to assist in housebreaking.

(not adviced in hot weather conditions, especially outside dogs)

Try to feed your pup a good dry food If human food is made available too often, they will try not to eat the balanced diet which is available in their food. Keep human foods to a bare minumum.

Personal note:

I understand that you may not follow all of these hints, as I personally haven`t in the past, but a good amount of this information will be helpful for you to keep in mind. The aggression and tug-of -war would be much more important to someone purchasing a large dog.

A small amount of obedience can make your pet much more enjoyable for you, your neighbors, and the pet. There are books and tapes available, reasonably priced, or at the public library. With the hopes of a long time commitment for the health and well-being of your pet, I hope these tips have given you a little insight on raising a good pet, who will bring you much joy. (MKD)

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